If you have ever traveled, domestically or
internationally, then you are no doubt familiar with the pre-departure
onslaught of travel recommendations by family and friends. First, of course,
they warn you of the locals. “Keep your wallet in your front pocket,” they tell
you knowingly. “Or, better yet, store it in a pouch and wear it around your
neck. That way nobody can steal it.” Next, they offer advice on the “must-see
sights.” This is particularly true of those who have traveled to your intended
destination. “Oh, you’re going to Vilnius?” they’ll ask. “You have to see
Gediminas Tower!” And finally, they demand to know about the local cuisine. “So,
what do the people eat there?” they’ll inquire with bated breath. The experienced
traveler will then respond: “Oh, you know—rye bread, potatoes, berries and
mushrooms, pork, smoked fish, and dairy,” all information that can be
found with a simple Google search.
It is this lattermost question, though, that I find people back in the U.S. ask me most. “What is the food like in
Lithuania?” Of course, they are most impressed by the dishes that are more thoroughly
un-American, those like vėdarai, a sausage made of potato stuffed with the large intestine of a
pig. But perhaps the largest surprise to my family and friends is the
importance of dairy products here in Lithuania.
On my
first trip to the local grocery, I learned very quickly that this is not the
place where you will find American cheddar cheese. Lithuania has its own
brands, notably—Pieno žvaigždės, Rokiškio sūris, Vilkyškių pieninė and Žemaitijos pienas—and their products line not one, but
multiple store aisles. During my first meal at a Lithuanian restaurant, a brief
glimpse at the menu revealed that virtually every dish contained meat,
potatoes, and some form of dairy, whether cottage cheese, sour cream, or
buttermilk. And while I certainly can’t profess to be a dairy connoisseur, I
can say that I’ve yet to encounter a Lithuanian cheese I didn’t like!
Recently, however, I was introduced to a
website called Freedom Cheese, dedicated to Lithuanian-made cheese that is banned in Russia. “In
general, all of Lithuanian milk products are banned,” the website says, “so by
buying them you will support democracy, freedom, openness, and integration.”
The site goes on to say that, “Russia has a history of banning food products
from countries with which it is sparring politically. It has, in the past,
banned wine from Georgia, chocolate from Ukraine and, in 2010, chicken thighs
from the U.S."
“Now,” the website continues, “it is
Lithuania’s turn. Last week, Russia banned imports of Lithuanian dairy products
after Gennady Onishchenko, the head of Russia’s health watchdog, said his
agency found high traces of yeast, fungus and bacteria from intestinal tracts
in them.” Ironically, this ban comes just one month before “Lithuania will host
a summit at which three ex-Soviet states are expected to sign association
agreements with the European Union, moving them farther outside Moscow's orbit.”