Today's blog post is by another guest writer -- Christine Beresniova, Fulbright Grantee to Lithuania in 2011-2012.
I have a very special relationship with Lithuania because I am married to a Lithuanian. So when I was awarded a Fulbright grant in 2011 to spend 9 months doing dissertation research there, many people thought that I would have an easy time of things. People assumed that because I could already limp along in the language, and I knew what I was getting into when someone uttered the words "Lithuanian winter” that I was merely going on some kind of extended vacation.
I have a very special relationship with Lithuania because I am married to a Lithuanian. So when I was awarded a Fulbright grant in 2011 to spend 9 months doing dissertation research there, many people thought that I would have an easy time of things. People assumed that because I could already limp along in the language, and I knew what I was getting into when someone uttered the words "Lithuanian winter” that I was merely going on some kind of extended vacation.
This was
hardly true. My husband was not going with me nor was I going to be spending 9
months lazing about on my mother-in-law's sofa. Instead, I was going to have to
carve out my own research path and make my own way in a world that neither knew
me nor was invested in my success. Yes, I could look forward to a lovely Sunday
dinner of buttery cauliflower, lumpy potato dumplings (cepelinai), and freshly made poppyseed cake every week, but my
in-laws could not help me build trust with people, nor could they make the
subject I was studying less controversial in Lithuania's political landscape. Doing
anthropologic fieldwork on how post-Soviet teachers are trained to teach the
Holocaust after 60 years of Soviet-occupied silence on the matter was going to
be a journey I had to undertake almost entirely on my own.
In fact,
for the first three months in Lithuania, I wondered if I had made a mistake
because it took what felt like forever to get people not only to talk to me,
but to trust me. The words, "my husband is Lithuanian" only went so
far in a country that was understandably wary of outsiders after a century of
repeated occupations. Just like anywhere else, I had to prove that I was
invested in my role not only as a Fulbright cultural Ambassador and a doctoral
student, but as someone who cared about the future of Lithuania and the people in it.
So, I
did the one thing that I knew was most important to Lithuanians: I continued to
learn the language. Lithuanian is the oldest Indo-European language in the
world, and some scholars claim that they can even trace it back to Sanskrit. It
is a source of pride to Lithuanians because they have worked so hard to
preserve it during decades of occupation and re-occupation by Czarist imperialism, Polish linguistic encroachment, Nazi invasion, and 50 years of Soviet totalitarianism. However, because it is so old, you can imagine that
it's not the simplest language to master. The bane of my existence was (and
still is) participles. I am told that I need them to have a solid conversation,
but I am still not convinced of this. Who needs a verb that acts like an
adjective? Aren't there adjectives for that? Nope. In Lithuanian, you need
both.
Needless
to say, I had a bone to pick with Lithuanian grammar and I was losing, so I
enlisted the help of a Lithuanian tutor who worked with me on research-specific
language needs 3 times a week. I will spare you the details of learning
participles, but I will say that while the language often gave me a headache,
the relationships that I formed by learning it were irreplaceable.
Some of my fondest memories take place in a small Lithuanian town called Jurbarkas. The town is situated along a lovely stretch of the Nemunas river, and it is also home to my language tutor’s family. On two occasions, I was invited to spend the weekend with the entire family—including cousins, aunts and various and sundry other affiliations who knew nothing about me save for what Agnė (my language tutor) had told them. We went to a Lithuanian folk festival, voted along with the rest of the European continent during Eurovision, and celebrated a traditional Lithuanian Easter in the freezing snow. I could not have had the same experiences that I had on these two occasions without having spoken Lithuanian.
Some of my fondest memories take place in a small Lithuanian town called Jurbarkas. The town is situated along a lovely stretch of the Nemunas river, and it is also home to my language tutor’s family. On two occasions, I was invited to spend the weekend with the entire family—including cousins, aunts and various and sundry other affiliations who knew nothing about me save for what Agnė (my language tutor) had told them. We went to a Lithuanian folk festival, voted along with the rest of the European continent during Eurovision, and celebrated a traditional Lithuanian Easter in the freezing snow. I could not have had the same experiences that I had on these two occasions without having spoken Lithuanian.
On our
first visit, Agnė, her sisters, and another Fulbrighter named Shay attended Panemunių Žiedai, a famous cultural
festival held at Raudonė castle. Yes! A castle! There we learned how to make
soap, cook fish on a stick, and eat snails.
A rather imposing stilt walker who
was painted in all silver stole my hat (he eventually gave it back).
While there,
we watched a woman make the famous Lithuanian cake šakotis,
and I struck up a conversation with her in Lithuanian. She wanted to know how
two Americans had found their way to this castle, and we wanted to know how she
made her cakes (in which batter is turned over a spit to make its famous
tree-like shape). It turned out that several Fulbrighters and I were going to
be in her city the following week, and so she invited us to come by her shop for
a visit. Because I spoke Lithuanian, I was able to call her the following week,
and we ate delicious cake at her house until we could eat no more.
Shay Laws learns to make soap |
The
Easter weekend that I spent with the family was reportedly the snowiest and
dreariest Easter Lithuania had seen in 20 years, but if you let the rainy weather affect your mood in Lithuania, you'd never have any fun! So, we stood
like icicles during the Catholic mass, and I learned that much like the US, going
to mass is not only for services, but also to see what your neighbors have been
up to during the year! I also learned how to make Lithuanian Easter eggs the
traditional way. While bright chemical colors are becoming all the rage in
Lithuania these days, the traditional egg dye is made from nothing more than
colored onion skins. Patterns are made by wrapping leaves around the eggs and
tying them off with stockings.
The
other option—which requires far more skill—is to draw on the eggs with wax to
create patterns. Using a pencil with a small needle embedded into the eraser, I
stuck my pinky out and set to work drawing thin wax lines in the shape of
flowers and stars. At least that's how I envisioned it in my head, but drawing
a steady series of thin lines along an egg with candle wax is not nearly as
simple as one might think. After I was done, I was given accolades for my
enthusiasm, but then it was kindly suggested that leaves and onion skins might
be easier for an American. We all laughed.
Once the
eggs had soaked in the onion skins overnight, we tried to identify the ones we
had done the day before. Then I was instructed that before eating them we all
had to engage in "egg wars" with our neighbor. The object is to hit
your opponent's egg hard enough it breaks. It has very little to do with skill
and everything to do with the shape of the egg, but every time we cracked our
neighbor's egg we laughed and raised our hands in the air like Rocky. It's was
nice to remember that laughter is still a universal language.
Language
is a fundamental thing. Learning it tells someone that you care enough to get
to know them on their terms. It really does break the ice, and in Lithuania
where there's 8 months of winter, finding a way to warmth is important whether
it’s literal or figurative.
Once my
Fulbright year ended, I decided to return to Lithuania for another 8
months of research. After all, I was finally building the relationships that I
sought, and I still had all those participles to learn.
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